Experiencing Edinburgh

A world-class city with a fascinating history, rich culture, tremendous architecture, and stunning views. I first saw Edinburgh myself when I went up with a group from the University of Birmingham for a day conference. At the end of the day I knew we had to get back there somehow, and this past week we had our chance. Our friends Michelle and Nigel took the kids for a couple of days, and Larissa and I took advantage of the opportunity (and low airfares) to jet up to Edinburgh for a short trip for our anniversary.

Edinburgh grew up around its fortress on the top of a rocky volcanic crag (pic 1). It is possible that people have lived on the hilltop for 3000 years, but a fort was certainly in existence over 1500 years ago, known as Din Eidyn (fort of Eidyn). The name Edinburgh derives from Anglo-Saxon, dating from the 7th century when the Angles of Northumbria conquered the fortress. The shape of the current Castle dates from the 12th through the 20th centuries. The oldest structure--the oldest building in Edinburgh--is tiny St. Margaret's Chapel, built by King David I in the early 1100s (pic 2). At the very top of the hill is the Crown Square, which includes the Royal Palace (pic 3). Inside is the birthchamber where King James VI (James I of England) was born to Mary Queen of Scots in 1566. The building also houses the Scottish "Honours," some of the oldest surviving royal regalia in the world, and the Stone of Destiny, part of the coronation ritual of British monarchs for perhaps over 1000 years. One can find eerier sights in the Castle--prisons used in the American War of Independence, for example--and inspiring rituals--such as the firing of the One O'Clock Gun every day at one in the afternoon. The views from the Castle are amazing, especially looking out across Edinburgh to the Firth of Forth (pic 4).

The Old Town of Edinburgh grew down from the fortress, branching off the long, downward sloping street known as the Royal Mile. Walking down the Royal Mile, one passes literally dozens of historic and cultural sites (and just as many "Kilts-R-Us" tourist shops). You know you're in Edinburgh when you see a bagpiper in a kilt standing in front of a statue of philosopher David Hume, with the crown tower of St. Giles Cathedral, where Reformer John Knox preached for a dozen years, rising in the background (pic 5). The Royal Mile also has dozens of closes and courts branching off of it, holding all sorts of interesting treasures. Larissa and I had lunch at a cafe in one of these (pic 6). At the bottom of the Royal Mile is Holyrood Palace and Abbey. The Abbey was built in the 12th century but is now in ruins; the Palace has been the Edinburgh residence of choice for monarchs since the 17th century and it is the Queen's home when she's in Edinburgh (pic 7).

The medieval Old Town was hemmed in by walls all around and a lake on its north side (Nor Loch). As the population expanded, the town burst at its seams and living conditions grew intolerable. In 1759 Nor Loch was drained, enabling the reclamation of the land at the north foot of the Castle and easier access to the ridge on the other side. Thus was born the New Town, built in distinctive Georgian style on this north side of the new valley and soon inhabited by the wealthy. One of the houses at Charlotte Square has been restored to the splendour of this period, and we enjoyed touring through it (pic 8). Princes' Street runs along the New Town side of the valley, which has been developed into beautiful gardens and walkways at the foot of the Castle rock. If one follows Princes' Street past the imposing Walter Scott monument, past the impressive National Gallery, and past the North Bridge with its grand hotels, one climbs to Calton Hill, filled with terrific monuments and offering splendid views in all directions, including back toward the Castle where our tour began (pic 9).

There's much, much more to Edinburgh, but this gives a taste of our experience of this great city. Thanks for coming along!